Flush Outlet Installation in an Older Apartment: Modifying a Shallow Steel Box

Replacing an electrical outlet usually seems straightforward: remove the old device, connect the conductors, install the new receptacle, and fit the cover plate.

During the final electrical work on an apartment remodeling project in South Korea, however, we encountered a problem that turned a routine outlet replacement into a much more detailed retrofit job.

The new grounded receptacles would not sit flush with the finished wall. No matter how carefully we pushed them into the existing openings, a visible gap remained behind the cover plate.

At first, the steel electrical box appeared to be too shallow. After removing the device and examining the original mounting structure, we found a different cause: the old box-extension hardware and the new receptacle were physically interfering with each other.

Before the Modification The outlet circuit was de-energized before cutting or drilling around the existing metal box. The work area was checked before the modification began. Cutting metal around concealed electrical conductors requires particular care to avoid damaging wire insulation.

Understanding the Existing Wall Structure

The wall contained a steel electrical box embedded inside the structure. In front of the box was an extension fitting commonly called “Kongkaba” (콘카바) on Korean construction sites.

This fitting helps position a switch or receptacle relative to the finished wall surface. After the steel box and extension fitting are installed, plaster, gypsum board, or another finishing material is applied around the opening.

The important detail on this site was that the existing assembly used a switch-type concave ring. It had worked with the original devices, but its shape did not provide enough clearance for the rear mounting structure of the new grounded receptacle.

Steel electrical box and switch-type concave ring used in an existing wall


Existing steel electrical box and switch-type concave ring installed behind the finished wall.

Why the New Grounded Receptacle Would Not Sit Flush

When we tried to install the new grounded duplex receptacle, it stopped before reaching the finished wall surface.

The reason became clear after comparing the existing concave ring with the back of the new receptacle. The ring had raised screw-mounting sections at the top and bottom.

The new receptacle also had metal mounting sections projecting from its rear. As the receptacle was pushed inward, these two structures contacted each other.

Once they touched, the receptacle could not move any farther into the wall. The result was a visible gap between the receptacle plate and the finished surface.


Grounded receptacle rear mounting sections and existing concave ring showing the interference points


Interference points between the rear mounting sections of the new grounded receptacle (left) and the raised sections of the existing concave ring (right).

The Actual Problem Was Mechanical Interference The steel box itself was not simply “too shallow.” The new receptacle was being stopped by direct contact between the existing concave ring and the receptacle's rear mounting structure. Removing that interference was the key to solving the problem.

The Modification at a Glance

The diagram below shows the solution more clearly than the job-site photographs alone. Only the two interfering raised sections at the top and bottom of the concave ring were removed.

After additional interference on the receptacle itself was removed, the device could move farther inward. Four available holes in the receptacle frame were then used as fastening points.

Concave ring modification showing two interference points removed and four screw locations used to install a grounded receptacle flush with the wall


Illustration of the field modification: two interference points were removed, and four fastening locations were used to secure the receptacle deeper inside the existing assembly.

Why We Did Not Re-Embed the Steel Boxes

One possible solution would have been to remove each existing steel box, open the finished wall, and reinstall the box deeper with components better matched to the new receptacle.

By the time we discovered the problem, however, the apartment finishes were already completed. Re-embedding approximately 25 boxes would have required substantial wall demolition.

There was another site constraint. Construction noise had already caused several complaints from other residents in the building, and additional hammer drilling was no longer practical.

A surface spacer could also have provided additional clearance, but the customer specifically requested that the finished outlets remain flush with the wall for appearance reasons.

Electrical receptacle installed with a spacer showing increased projection from the finished wall


Adding a spacer provides extra clearance, but it also increases the distance between the receptacle and the finished wall surface.

Cutting the Two Interference Points

We used an oscillating multi-tool fitted with a metal-cutting blade to remove the raised mounting sections at the top and bottom of the existing concave ring.

The goal was not to remove the entire extension fitting. We removed only the two areas that were preventing the receptacle from moving inward.

This required controlled cutting because existing conductors were located immediately behind the work area. The blade had to be kept away from conductor insulation and other parts of the box assembly.


Oscillating multi-tool cutting the top and bottom interference points of an existing metal concave ring


An oscillating multi-tool with a metal-cutting blade was used to remove the two interfering sections of the existing concave ring.

Modifying and Repositioning the Receptacle

The receptacle itself also had rear metal mounting sections occupying the same space. Those interfering sections were removed so that the device could move farther into the existing opening.

Once the obstruction was eliminated, the difference was immediately noticeable: the receptacle could now move inward until the front of the device aligned much more closely with the finished wall.


Securing the Receptacle at Four Points

After removing the original interference, the receptacle still needed to be firmly secured.

Four available holes in the receptacle frame were used as fastening points. Self-drilling screws were driven through these locations into the existing steel box structure behind the wall.

Using four points helped keep the receptacle stable and properly aligned while allowing the device to remain farther inside the wall opening. After fastening, the receptacle was checked for movement and alignment before the finish plate was installed.

Four fastening holes on a grounded receptacle frame used to secure the receptacle to the existing steel box

Four available holes in the receptacle frame were used as fastening points for the field modification.

One Problem Repeated Across the Apartment This was not a one-off repair. Most of the existing outlets used the same box configuration, so the modification was repeated at approximately 25 outlet locations. What would normally have been a quick finishing task became a significant part of the day's electrical work.

Final Result: A Flush Finish

After the interference points were removed and the receptacles were secured in their new positions, the cover plates finally sat tightly against the finished wall.

There was no longer a noticeable gap or spacer behind the outlet, and the finished appearance matched the customer's request.

Grounded receptacle installed flush with the finished wall after modifying the existing mounting assembly

Final result: the grounded receptacle is firmly secured and sits flush with the finished wall surface.

What This Retrofit Taught Us

Existing buildings can present problems that are difficult to predict before devices are removed. A replacement receptacle may look compatible from the front, while a few millimeters of hidden metal behind the device can completely change the installation.

In this case, the useful question was not simply, “Is the box deep enough?” It was: “Exactly where is the new device stopping?”

Finding that exact contact point allowed us to solve the problem without reopening all of the finished walls.

Practical Field Lesson When a replacement electrical device will not sit flush, check the actual interference point before assuming the entire box is too shallow. A mounting tab, extension fitting, conductor position, bracket, or another concealed component may be preventing the device from moving into its final position.

Korean Construction Field Terms

1. 콘카바 (Kongkaba) — Box Extension / Concave Ring

Kongkaba (콘카바) is a Korean construction-site term commonly used for a metal or plastic extension fitting installed in front of an embedded electrical box. It helps position a switch or receptacle relative to the finished wall surface.

In this project, a switch-type Kongkaba had been installed behind the existing outlets. Its raised upper and lower mounting sections interfered with the rear structure of the new grounded receptacles.

Safety and Retrofit Context

This article documents a field solution used on an existing finished installation. It is not intended as a universal installation method for every building or electrical system.

New installations should use properly matched electrical boxes, extension fittings, wiring devices, and fastening methods in accordance with applicable local requirements and manufacturer instructions.

Electrical circuits should be de-energized and verified before work begins. Cutting or drilling near concealed conductors can damage insulation and create shock, short-circuit, or fire hazards.

Electric Korea
Korean Electrical Construction · Field Experience · Safety · Technical Education
Website: electrickorea.co.kr